Back in 2017, I stepped out of my apartment, determined to explore my new home in Vienna. We’d been living here just under a year, and as I had some time on my hands. This was my second day out, and I headed North East to the edge of the 21st district. There are many of these from the very early days of Wiener Wanderland, and we’ll both be revisiting these places with fresh eyes. In the meantime, have a read.
After yesterday’s trip to Ober St. Veit, today I’m heading out to the edge of the city. I’m at the end of the line, tram lines 30 and 31 to be precise. I’ve wandered to Stammersdorf.
I don’t know Stammersdorf at all. In my many vacations in Vienna and since moving here, Stammersdorf Has never once ‘come up’ as a destination. It really should have. Dating back to the 1100s, Stammersdorf only officially became part of Vienna in the 1930s. It’s also said that the hills surrounding the village still house the remains of many anti Aircraft placements from WW2. I’m not thinking about that though. As I leave the tram at the end of the line, I’m greeted by a retired little train Engine. A shunter I think? It’s cute, but I’m next to the main road out of town to Gerasdorf and the shopping mall beyond. It’s noisy and not what I expected. I figure the best way to get away from it all is to put the road to my back and start walking. Josef Flandorfer Straße takes me away from it all and within minutes, the sounds of the main road fall away and birdsong fills the air. Vienna disappears. The street I’m on is full of single-story homes. It feels old. It’s nice. Even where a newer build social housing block sprouts up, it’s modern, clean and sympathetic to the surroundings. As my stroll continues, the postman passes me on an electric scooter. It’s so quiet, it’s perfect for the area.
Then all of a sudden, I’m in the middle of nowhere. The buildings drift away and I’m facing a field of wheat or corn. For a moment I’m tempted to be naughty and run through it, but that’s for prime ministers, not me. Instead, I look back at the city skyline.
From the field, I head right onto a side street. I can see a very nice looking church ahead. I pass a lovely looking school (I think it’s a school) before I reach the end of the road. I thought I’d find the church sitting waiting for me. Instead, I find myself 100 years in the past, At least that’s what it feels like. The road splits and in the centre sits a world war 1 memorial. It’s easy to forget sometimes that both sides lost people, and even the losing side gets to mourn the lost.
Behind the memorial is what seems to be a bar. If you’re looking for whiskey, this seems to be the place. The Windows all contain old whiskey bottles and packaging. In front of that is a beautiful little park area with five statues, they’re white marble gleaming in the sun. This is a perfect place to take a break, so I do. I could sit here all day. Time seems to pass slowly here and the peace and quiet fill the air like a soft, fluffy quilt.
After my rest, I follow the road through the village. A common theme forms around me. Wine. This is a wine village. I’m not talking about large vineyards stretching for miles. No these are tiny, family-run vineyards. Each one and there is several to choose from, offers a very unique wine experience. There are the wineries, which I think specialise in local wines. Then there are the Heuriger’s, where the wine is so fresh, it’s often still on the vines around you. The wine and food in any of these places are very traditionally Austrian and delicious. In the autumn when the wines are ready, Stammersdorf is going to be the place to come to sample the wares.
I reach the end of the village and find folk on the road. There’s a pretty little seating area that overlooks the road that may be a little overgrown, but it makes for a nice spot to picnic. At the front is a depiction of the crucifixion. One thing I’ve learnt living in Austria is that you’re never too far from a crucifixion depiction. The country is 75% Roman Catholic.
I leave Jesus to his spot at the side of the road and follow the street ahead. It leads to the edge of town and another gorgeous view back to the city. I turn around and head back to town in need of a cold drink. Along the way I find a figure of a Monk placed in a wall. It’s cute and worth a picture.
I pass back through the little village green and eventually I come across the Cafe Ofner. It’s a small place full of character. I get a Radler and a Seat by a window where a cooling breeze passes by. The place is run by a husband and wife team. They’re really friendly and we tried with my very broken Deutsch to have a chat. I need to get on with learning Deutsch.
Lunch is calling me, so I head back to the five statues and enjoy my lunch in good company. I’m getting tired and the heat is really starting to build. I finish lunch and head off in search of the church. I somehow missed the little street that takes me to the grounds of Stammersdorf Catholic Church. Like many churches here, it’s old and very pretty.
There’s no good spot to fit the whole thing in a picture, so I settle for the best shot I’ve got. A little further away, I find the church’s cemetery. I wander through the small area and marvel at the age of some of the burials. Some plots date back to the mid-1800s and have several following dates of the departed added to the stones. I slip out of the graveyard and onto a tiny country lane. I’m fatigued now, so I figure it’s time to call it quits. I walk down the lane, find a charming abandoned cottage before I pass a small vineyard with a small pressraum attached (yeah it’s that fresh!), pass the church and head home to the city. I loved Stammersdorf, and it’s on my ‘must visit’ list. The call for good wine and great food should never be ignored.
Getting to Stammersdorf is nice and easy. The number 31 trams bring you from the city centre in around 40 minutes while both the number 30 and 31 trams can be picked up at Floridsdorf S-Bahn station, accessible from Wien Hauptbahnhof, Wien Miite and the U6 Ubahn line.
If you’d like to learn more, check out the link below.